Snorkeling Through Tectonic Plates In Iceland - And It Was A Challenge
One Icelandic morning, I decided it would be a good idea to swim through the tectonic plates at sub-zero temperature. Doesn't seem so hard, right?
A Ridge To My Heart
If you've ever had the extremely specific ambition of swimming through tectonic plates (and who doesn't love a good niche?), or just happened to browse for things to do in Iceland, then Silfra is the place for you. What is quite arguably an icy alien planet is in fact a rift formed on something called the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. I'm not too clued up on the ins and outs of geography, but I liked the sound of a good ridge. And this ridge is by far the best ridge out there. Hopefully whoever is reading this just happens to have a 'I heart Ridges' T-shirt on and I've catered to you perfectly. Whether you're an enthusiast or just want to find out what all this Ridge-related fuss is about anyway, it can be brought to life with this very same tour that I myself took part on (linked down below). It’s the only place in the World where you can literally swim in-between the tectonic boundary between the North American and Eurasian plates, and isn't that a conversation starter? Now I hope your experience is as enjoyable, yet still as loveably challenging as mine was. I only hope you conducted yourself with an ounce more grace than I did. If so, please tell me how you did it?!
A Small Girl In A Big World
I've always proudly held the epithet that I am in fact, average height, thank you very much. 5'4 seemed like a reasonable height for a woman to aspire to. At least that's what I told myself. However, as I have hurtled through life to the bleak outlook of my mid-twenties, I have finally admitted I am 5'3. Whether I've shrunk from the constant English rain, much like a woolly jumper on a high temperature wash, or simply am an over-exaggerated victim of gravity, who knows? There was one eventful day Googling if I had developed rickets.
However, as I arrived at the stunning views of the Silfra Fissure, I was forced to confront my 5'3-inch reality on the wet suit that was clearly only made for a Dwayne The Rock Johnson type figure. Of which I can confidently say I am not. It took three men to get it on me, and double that to get it off. Needless to say, this wasn't my most glamourous moment. I was stood on freezing ice looking like an extra-terrestrial had tried to make the human form out of paper mache from memory. With only an abstract image of The Thing as a reference point. Okay, I’m being dramatic. It was actually the comfiest thing I’ve had wrapped around me this year.
The Undignified Ice Skate
Once kitted out, I thought I could conquer anything. I tried to push the humiliating task of actually getting into the suit to the back of my mind. What came next was the short walk from our van to the descent into the icy water. I'm afraid to say the idea of getting a slow-mo video of me walking through this icy tundra crossed my mind, but immediately flew out again. I soon took to flailing along the ice as, being already co-ordinately challenged, wasn't helped by a pure icy downward slope. What would have been a graceful step into the water, like the elegant flamingo I dreamed I could be, turned into a desperate grasp to slow myself down as I hurtled head first into the icy depths. They were depths worth diving into. With the underwater visibility in the Silfra fissure being over 100 meters, it makes the water some of the clearest on the planet. As a child looked on in horror, I had to admit it was rather fun. Of course there was a brave and heroic instructor to save me from any danger, so in total this was all a thrilling addition to the adventure.
The Big Freeze
I suppose this was obvious. I WAS in Iceland after all. The idea seems so sweet and abstract on the pictures. It looked refreshing if anything. Stepping into the quite literally almost freezing water (2-4° Celsius in fact), I was surprised that the wet suit, was perfectly fashioned to act as a barricade against the cold. And it worked perfectly. the icy water beautiful in its clarity and wildness. Silfra itself is one of the largest and deepest fissures in the þingvallavatn lake. It has three main dives sites: Silfra Hall, Silfra Cathedral and Silfra Lagoon. Which to me sounds like an Atlantis-type underwater city. And what's not to like about that?
All until your head hits the water. The ice sure makes the experience fun then. Like how an ice cube floats to the top of a Pinot Grigio, so was my head aloft in the icy wind’s grasp. When I gagged on the water from trying to drink it like a dog would, it froze in the air. What was left was an assortment of icy saliva covering my face, while it bobbed uncontrollably through the Earth's great plates.
Deadpan Drowning
That one certificate from Year 6 in 'Breast Stroke and Butterfly Stroke' was a talking point on the way there. Assured in my confidence that only a 15-year-old achievement can generate, I was sure that I would face no problems within the water. 'I'm at home in the sea' and 'watch my incredible seal-like resemblance' were proud boasts to the other participants. I could see their awe like amazement at such claims. My hopes of being the Icelandic Michael Phelps were soon dashed once in the water. I'm inclined to blame the wet suit once again, but on reflection it was probably just my poor coordination rearing it’s ugly head. Unable to move, I seemed to float and rotate through the water like a rotisserie chicken, only breathing when face up. The snorkel was elsewhere, one flipper was in disarray, when under the water I thought I'd never again rotate back round. The rest of the group let me float off, like some grotesque piece of driftwood.
Finding Nemo? No Thanks.
As I faced the reality of my one flippered new look, I looked down onto said tectonic plates. It was crystal clear, wide, and astounding. Definitely worth the price, if truth be told. I scanned the area during one of my pleasant stints underwater, and saw a loveable amebae like organism float in front of me. Tiny specs that were either very small living things floating through the sky like water, or were simply white spots in front of my eyes from the lack of air? Needless to say, it was all very life affirming. Alone with just the rocks, I had the sense of welcome isolation. Although, maybe it held an abundance of sea life and they were dodging the spectacle I made of myself. Fish or no fish aside, swimming through these plates was amazing. And the very real fear of drowning sure did add an exciting twist to the tale too. Just kidding.
Icy Aftermath
Out of the water at last, I grasped onto the metal railing only to find my glove had immediately frozen solid onto it. The Go Pro Group filtered past, and we all know the type. Often young men with long hair, a nose piercing and camera kit strapped to their forehead who's done every activity under the Sun. I envied them as I stood stuck to the railings, doomed to never move. My hair had frozen in one icy point. After removing my headwear, I looked like I had hair not unlike a Lego figurine. I quite liked this look, and it topped off the experience in my eyes. Getting a brush through it later was a memory I'd rather forget.
Style tips from the Silfra Fissure
Overall, this was definitely a once in a lifetime trip worth taking. The showcasing of my bad athletic ability only made the whole day more fun. Of course, drowning wasn't really an option, there were trained staff nearby folks, but I do love a touch of melodrama. I 100% recommend this trip, and if you want to check it out, click on the bottom below! I hope you all enjoy the day and go through it with just as many embarrassing anecdotes as I did.
